When it was announced that the RMS St Helena would be calling in London and berthing alongside HMS Belfast my first thought was: “Who do I know in London who could get me some pics?” and my second was: “I need a break, why don’t I go to London and get the pics myself!” So I sat down and did a feasibility study. I live about 2,5 hours by rail to London but cannot travel there directly, and have to do it via Cheltenham. The other problem was accommodation; it is not cheap to stay in a hotel there, they are pricey and do not really cater for singles. Yet, I managed to organise it all, got the leave and on the morning of the 7th of June I was on my way to see my ship. Arrival time had been given at 16H45, but that could change, considering how far she had come from.
Paddington Station is quite an experience, I had never been there before so it was all new to me. It was also the station that the Great Western Railway established as the end point for their trains into London.
It was also where a famous Bear from Peru arrived one fine day….
I had a rough and ready schedule that I had made, and it included Kensal Green and St Mary’s Cemetery, The Imperial War Museum, The Victoria and Albert Museum, Tower Hill Merchant Navy Memorial and possibly Bunhill Fields Cemetery. The only fixed part of my schedule was the RMS arrival. That was cast in stone.
After finding my hotel and dropping off my luggage I hit the tube, I had at least 5 hours to kill before I had to be at Tower Bridge and decided that Bunhill Fields was *on the way”, and I bailed out at Moorgate Station and proceeded to get lost….
Winding forward to roughly 13H30. It was getting cloudier and things were looking decidedly poor weatherwise. I was now at Tower Bridge and had confirmation that the bridge would be opened at 16H45 for the ship so she was not too far away, probably still at Tilbury.
I had some time to kill and headed off to the Imperial War Museum where I got caught in the rain. I killed time there and then headed back to the bridge and grabbed a quick bite to eat. The rain had reduced itself to a drizzle and there was a chance it would even clear. Time was approaching and I still had not decided where to wait the ship out. The problem was, once the bridge was raised I was stranded on that bank of the Thames.
I ended up on the Tower of London side and stayed there, chatting to a fellow ship buff who had come to see her. Bridge raising time arrived and passed, but the ship buff confirmed she was on her way and had cleared the Thames Barrier. And then…..
That first glimpse of the RMS after so many years was a very emotional moment. I had sailed on her in 1993, and since then I had changed jobs, moved house many times, gone through all manner of odd things and she had carried on ploughing her furrow to the Island of St Helena. I had seen her when she was almost brand new, it was now 25 year later and she was on her last voyages.
She was escorted by two tugs, the ZP Bear and SD Seal, which may have come from Tilbury. As she started to come closer the sirens started and the bridge we were standing on started to open to allow her through. I will be honest I did not notice too much of what was happening behind me at this point.
And then she was starting to pass under the raised roadway and I had to change position
I headed back across to the other side of the bridge which is not as easy as it sounds as there are railings (and traffic) quite far back along the bridge. By the time I got to the other side she was already through.
I threaded my way down to street level and towards the area opposite HMS Belfast, but you can only see the ship up to a point before it gets hidden by the river cruise boat piers; I really had to get past those to get a better look. But alas quite a few people had the same idea as I had.
HMS Belfast is more than a match for her sizewise and interestingly enough both of these ships were built in Britain!
It was time for me to return to my hotel. As much as I wanted to stay I still had to check in, and I was tired and hungry and we were into peak hour on the tube. I said my goodbyes, but knew I would be back on the next day. There was still one image I wanted.
The next day.
I returned to the Thames after my mammoth Kensal Green excursion, and via St Paul’s Cathedral and a rain storm. I wanted a pic from bow on of these two ships.
And then it was time to say my goodbyes to her. It was sad to see her knowing that she is in her last days. She is unique and can never be replaced. She will however live on in the memories of those who sailed on her and the people of St Helena. This small ship literally kept an island alive, she is being replaced like so many others by a jet aircraft and things will never be the same again.
I am glad I sailed on her, I am sad I never sailed on her twice, or 6 times. But oddly enough she was the ship that appeared in my dreams the most.
Fair weather for your voyage home RMS St Helena, and for the final voyage that you will make. You will be missed.
It was announced that the RMS has been sold to Tahiti Shipping, a subsidiary of MNG Maritime, bought the ship for an undisclosed amount. Under the name MNG Tahiti, she is to be based in the Gulf of Oman, and used as a floating armoury, packed with automatic weapons, bullet-proof jackets and night vision goggles, all stored for maritime security operatives who keep vessels secure from piracy attacks.
In October 2018 the vessel was resold to St Helena LLC, Jersey and in 2019 the ship will be refitted to act as a mobile hub for the race events of the Extreme E electric SUV racing series. She was due to be refitted in Liverpool and while she did did arrive in Liverpool in the light of the covid-19 pandemic it was not known whether this racing series would even happen in 2021. By some miracle the St Helena underwent her refit and emerged from Cammell Laird dry dock 6 in Merseyside on 19/09/2020 in her new livery. Images courtesy of Christopher Trigg and are used with permission.
The St Helena has now emerged from Cammell Laird dry dock 6 in Merseyside, United Kingdom (19/09/2020) in her new EXTREME.E livery. Images courtesy of Christopher Trigg and are used with permission .
DRW © 2016-2021. Created 09/06/2016, 10/02/2020. Images of the St Helena in Liverpool courtesy of Christopher Trigg and are used with permission .